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Essay

My Father Threads Skewers Faster Now

父亲现在串肉比我快

Enkh Batbayar2026-10-30约 6 分钟♥ 355

When my father first came down from the countryside he could thread forty skewers in an hour. Now he does seventy, and the pieces are more even than mine. Nobody taught him. He sat at the low table by the door with the bamboo basket between his knees and worked out his own way of holding the stick so his fingers would not cramp after two hours.

He does not like the night market. Too loud, too many people, the smoke gets into his chest and he coughs in the mornings. He has never once said he wants to go back. He arrives at four, stays until the tables are stacked, and carries the heavy things so that I do not have to.

What he wants instead

In the afternoon, before the cart goes out, he sits with a notebook and draws the same thing over and over: a rectangle with a line across it, which is a room, and a smaller square at the front, which is a counter. A roof over all of it. Somewhere on the main road, he says, where the buses go past.

He draws the same rectangle every afternoon. I have started to believe in it.

I have done the arithmetic more than once. The deposit, a year of rent, the fridge, the sign. I know the number, I know how many skewers it is, and I know we are not close. I also know he is not asking me for it. That is the part that keeps me at the grill.

My mother says he was like this when they were young: always drawing the next thing on the back of something. A house, then a bigger house, then a well. They got the well. It took four years. She tells it as a joke, he pretends not to hear, and in the afternoon he opens the notebook to a fresh page and draws his rectangle again.

Two hundred skewers, one page

My brother wants a second cart. He has the whole argument ready: the corner near the temple road, those two hours when people queue at ours and then walk away. He is right and I know he is right, and I keep saying we will talk about it in the dry season, which is what I say when I do not want to say no.

On Sunday afternoons we stop. My father and I sit outside with tea and thread skewers for the week ahead, and he is faster than me now, and I have stopped being surprised. He does not count them. He keeps going until the basket is empty and then looks up, and the afternoon is gone, and he says, well, that's that.

I have slept five hours a day for three years. I keep telling myself I will sleep more when there is a roof. He tells me the same thing. We are both lying a little, and we both know it, and it is fine, because the charcoal is already laid out for tomorrow.

中文译文

父亲刚从乡下来的时候,一个钟头串四十串。现在七十串,块切得比我还匀。没人教他。他坐在门口矮桌边,竹篮夹在两膝之间,自己摸出一套握签子的手法,好让手指两个钟头后不抽筋。

他不喜欢夜市。太吵,人太多,烟进了肺,早上会咳。他从没说过想回去。四点来,一直待到桌子收完,重的东西抢着搬,好像他不搬就得我搬。

他想要的另一样东西

出摊前的下午,他坐在那里翻本子,一遍遍画同一个东西:一个长方形,中间一道线,是屋子;前面一个小方块,是柜台。上面要有个顶。他说,要在主路边上,大巴经过的地方。

每天下午他画同一个长方形。我已经开始相信它了。

那笔账我算过不止一次。押金、一年租金、冰柜、招牌。我知道那个数,也知道它是多少串肉,还知道我们离它不近。我也知道他不是在向我要。就是这一点,让我一直站在炉子前。

母亲说他年轻时就这脾气,总在什么纸背上画下一样东西。先是房子,再是大一点的房子,然后是一口井。井最后打上了,用了四年。她讲这件事像讲笑话,他装作没听见,下午又翻到新的一页,把那个长方形重画一遍。

两百串,一页纸

弟弟想再添一辆车。理由他全准备好了:庙路那边的路口,我们这边有人排到一半就走掉的那两个钟头。他对,我也知道他对,我只说等旱季再谈——我不想说不行的时候,就说这句话。

周日下午我们歇。父亲和我在门口坐着喝茶,串下一周的货。他现在比我快,我已经不吃惊了。他不数,一直串到篮子空了才抬头,一个下午就没了,他说,喏,就这样。

我一天睡五个小时,睡了三年。我老跟自己说,等有了屋顶就多睡会儿。他也这么说。我们都在小小地撒谎,彼此都知道,也没什么,反正明天的炭已经摆好了。

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