Essay
Coffee Before the Trucks Arrive
卡车来之前的那杯咖啡

The trucks come a little after six. I am in Kapana at ten past, at the small café on the corner where the chairs are still stacked and the owner is out front with a rag and a hose. He puts the cup down without asking. Six years of Mays and we have spoken maybe forty sentences in total.
I sit outside even when it is cold. The street is being washed. A man goes past with a dog that has no interest in anything. I open the notebook and copy last night's numbers out of my phone: temperature at the cut, time, weight of petals in, weight of oil out. Numbers I already know, written again, because writing them starts the day.
The Hour Nobody Wants
At six in the morning the old town belongs to nobody. The cobbles are wet, the shutters are down, and the only people working are the ones who will be invisible by ten. I like it more than I like most things. It is the one half hour when nobody asks what I think of their oil, and I am not yet the person who says no.
I do not talk before the first cup. The roses do not require conversation either.
I came into this at nineteen, sorting petals for a season because my aunt knew someone who needed hands. I was supposed to do something else; I had the grades for it, and my father had opinions. Then the first week ended and I noticed I could tell two batches apart by smell alone, and that was that. The rest I learned slowly, on the wet floor.
The notebook is not sentimental. It is evidence. When a distiller swears his fire was low, I open it to a page from three years ago and read out what I wrote then. The page does not raise its voice. Neither do I. That is the whole trick of being thirty in a room full of men who have done this since before I was born.
The Last Week of May
In the last week the yard empties. The trucks come less often, the stills cool down, and the smell thins out until the building is just a building with a wet floor. I am glad. I am also a little lost, the way you are lost when a noise you had stopped hearing stops.
The season does not end with the last flower. It ends with the first morning you forget to check the wind.
I go up the hill on a Sunday with no notebook. The city is loud below and the wind does what it does. Somewhere down there a barrel is being filled and somebody is arguing about the cut. I will hear about it tomorrow. Today I cannot smell a single rose, and it is the best I have felt in a month.
中文译文
卡车六点过一点来。我六点十分在卡帕纳,街角那家小咖啡馆,椅子还摞着,老板拿着抹布和水管在门口。他不问就把杯子放下。六年来我每个五月都来,我们总共说过大概四十句话。
天冷我也坐外面。街道正在被冲洗。一个人牵着狗过去,那狗对什么都不感兴趣。我打开本子,把昨晚的数字从手机里抄下来:切取时的温度、时间、进锅花瓣的重量、出油的重量。这些数字我早就知道,再写一遍,是因为写下来,这一天就开始了。
没人想要的那一个小时
早上六点,老城不属于任何人。石板是湿的,百叶窗都关着,还在干活的只有那些到十点就看不见的人。我喜欢这一个小时,胜过喜欢大多数东西。这半小时里没人问我怎么看他的油,我也还不是那个负责说不行的人。
第一杯之前我不说话。玫瑰也不需要交谈。
十九岁那年我入的行,一个产季都在分拣花瓣,因为姑妈认识一个缺人手的人。我本来该做别的事——成绩够,我父亲也有意见。可第一个星期结束,我发现自己光靠闻就能分出两批,那就这样了。剩下的,是站在湿地面上慢慢学的。
这本子不留情。它是证据。蒸馏工发誓说他火很小的时候,我翻到三年前的一页,把当时写的念出来。纸不会提高嗓门,我也不。三十岁,站在一屋子从我出生前就干这行的人中间,全部的本事就是这个。
五月的最后一周
最后一周,院子空了。卡车来得稀,锅冷下来,味道一天天薄下去,直到这栋楼重新变回一栋只有湿地面的楼。我松了一口气,又有一点失落,就像一种你已经听不见的噪音忽然停了。
产季的结束不是最后一朵花,是第一个你忘了看风向的早晨。
星期天我上山,不带本子。下面的城很吵,风做风该做的事。某个地方有只桶正在装满,有人在为切点争论。明天我会听说。今天我闻不见一朵玫瑰,这是我这一个月来最好的一天。






